. home . specs . techs . pics . links . blogger :: Techs :: Performance Accessories 3" Bodylift

Tools: Floor Jack, 6x6 Blocks, Creeper, Screwdrivers, Sockets (Both SAE & Metric, Shallow & Deep, 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" Socket Sets & Extensions), Drill & 5/16" Drill Bit, Sawzall or Grinder, Safety Glasses, Needle Nose Pliers, & Tin Snips. (more tools may be required, it's best to have a wide assortment available)

Time: 10-20 hours (depending on skill level)

Application: 99-02 Silverado/Sierra

Special Notes: This is not an especially difficult install to do, however it is very time consuming and requires a lot of wrenching time. I would suggest having at least one other person there to help you and be prepared to spend a lot of time, because if you rush this you can risk dame to both your truck and yourself. And remember, this isn't a full set of instructions, it is just a guide to ease you through some of the trouble spots of the installation.

Step 1: Read through all of the safety instructions and also read through all the instructions a few times so that you fully understand them.
Step 2: Park the vehicle on a clean, dry, flat level surface and block the wheels to prevent the truck from rolling.


Step 3: Disconnect both battery cables, be sure to disconnect the negative cable first. Then remove the air bag fuse from the fuse panel located on the dash by the driver's side door. The air bag fuse is a blue 15 amp fuse.
Step 4: The directions advise you to now install the steering shaft extension at this point, however I waited until the cab was jacked up to install it. At this point I just made a mark w/ a white paint pen for alignment purposes and removed the bolt and set it aside since it will be re-used later. The upper part of the steering shaft compresses and when the cab is lifted you should be able to compress it more than enough to install the spacer. Also note that there is a notch one the male end of the spacer that lines up w/ a notch on the lower steering shaft.
Step 5: Remove the ground wire located on the bottom of the driver side firewall. I installed the extension on the top area for simplicity's sake. It's the main ground strap that connects to the cab near the engine compartment light.
Step 6: Remove the seven clips holding the core support shroud in place and remove the shroud. These can be removed w/ a flathead screwdriver.
Step 7: Remove the grill by giving the four phillips heads screws (one on each corner) a 1/4 turn. Then remove the bolt located at the top center of the grille (10mm bolt). Please note that one each side of the grille there are still clips that retain the grill, which can be released by giving the grille a good yank.
Step 8: At this point you must remove your air intake. I've got a K&N FIPK so I just took out the air box portion and the tube that goes into the throttle body and set them to the side.
Step 9: Remove the top two screws that hold in the fan shroud and then let the fan shroud rest against the engine. I put the two screws back in afterwards so that they wouldn't get lost.
Step 10: Remove the plastic shroud that covers the area between the bottom of the radiator and the front bumper. This can be done w/ a flathead screwdriver as well. The directions state it will be modified however mine did not need to be.
Step 11: Remove the four bolts that hold the transmission cooler line to the core support and remove the cooler lines. I found that this rose w/ the truck and nothing bound on it.
Step 12: Remove the four bolts that hold the plastic skid plate the frame under the radiator and remove the plate.
Step 13: Remove the front bumper. Remove the two bolts (on each side) attaching the outer bumper bracket to the bumper. Remove the bolt holding the outer support bar to the frame and remove the bar. Remove the four bolts that mount the bumper to the frame and finally remove the whole bumper/valence unit from the truck. The front bumper weighed about 25 pounds so I unscrewed the bolts while a friend removed the bumper.
Step 14: Separate the parking brake cable at the clip connecting the front to the rear. Just unscrew the nut on the adjuster partially and have someone pull the front line towards the back, this should allow you enough slack to disconnect the cable.
Step 15: Remove the wiring and steel fuel lines from the clips on the driver's side frame rail. Unbolt the safety cables located on the rear body mounts (if equipped). Check for and unbolt any other wires, cables, or hoses that may need to be disconnected before lifting. I left all my fuel lines connected and I didn't have any problems w/ them binding during the lift.
Step 16: Lower the spare tire to the ground and set it aside.
Step 17: Disconnect the license plate lights and remove the clip holding each wire to the bumper. Unbolt the hitch if equipped. Then, remove the rear bumper and the bumper mounts that extend to the frame. The rear bumper isn't much heavier than the front, easy enough for one person to be able to lift.
Step 18: Measure the distance between the cab and the bed on both sides of the truck. Write them down for the purpose of alignment later. I did this, however, no alignment was needed.
Step 19: Loosen, but do not remove all six cab mounting bolts (8 on extended cab models).
Step 20: Remove the cab mounting bolts from the passenger side of the cab only. Make sure all the doors are closed to prevent flexing. Using a jack and wooden block lift the passenger side high enough to clear the large spacer blocks. Then lower the body onto the spacers and hand tight the new long bolts. CAUTION: After each pump of the jack check for any binding wires throughout the truck, do not rush this part.
Step 21: Repeat this step for the driver's side of the vehicle. The only binding that occurred for me was w/ the linkage for the 4x4 shifter (see pics for mounts made to relocate the brake/fuel lines). I also installed the steering shaft extension at this time. After that you can remove the body bolts and reinstall w/ loctite to factory spec.
Step 22: Bolt the safety cable extensions to the rear frame body mount using the stock bolt. Attach the cable to the extension bracket. This I couldn't find in the kit so I assumed my truck was not equipped with it.
Step 23: (automatic transmission only) Be sure that the cable has enough slack and is not pulling on the boot or binding the cable. It may be necessary to remove one of the clips to provide enough slack. Mine shifted fine throughout the gears, so no adjustments were required.
Step 24: (manual transmission only) The vehicle is equipped w/ a hydraulic clutch and requires no modification. Check gearshift operation.
Step 25: Loosen, but do not remove all eight bed-mounting bolts (six on short bed models). My truck is a short bed, however there were 8 bolts that held the bed to the frame. They extra two were towards the rear of the truck.
Step 26: Remove the bed mounting bolts from the passenger side of the bed only. Using a jack and block of wood slowly lift the bed high enough to place the spacer blocks on the bed mounting pads. Place in the long bolts and hand tighten at this time. Install the two bed support brackets and secure w/ a bolt.
Step 27: Repeat for the driver's side and remove the bolts and reinstall w/ loctite and tighten to factory spec.
Step 28: Install 3" shroud lowering brackets using the stock screws in the upper shroud. Use the L-Shaped brackets to attach the lower fan shroud. I found the lower fan shroud to be a PITA, since it was hard to get to and it was installed w/ some self-tapping sheet metal screws.
Step 29: Mount the parking brake cable relocating-bracket to the cab mount by drilling two 5/16" holes in the cab mount 2-1/2" from the frame. The picture should help you determine where to place the bracket. Be sure it's close enough to the frame that you can route the cable through it.
Step 30: Replace the wiring and steel vapor lines in the clips on the frame rail where possible. Since mine were not removed I didn't have to replace them.
Step 31: Lower the transmission cooler and install the two "S" Shaped relocation brackets. My tranny cooler didn't lower w/ the truck, thus I didn't have to do any of the steps associated w/ relocating it.
Step 32: Put the cooler lines back into the clips on the core support and use a zip tie to secure them to the clip.
Step 33: The existing notches on the rear of the flap (removed in step #10) must be enlarged to 1"x3" to clear the lines. Then reinstall (yet again, no modifications required).
Step 34: (1/2 Ton Only) Before reinstalling the front bumper, the bumper brackets that are welded to the frame must be notched to clear the new brackets. After installing this I'm not exactly sold on the fact that any notching was really necessaray.
Step 35: Reinstall the front bumper. Remove the valence before hand since it will not clear the frame horns w/o modification. The install of this was fairly easy, however aligning it wasn't the easiest.
Step 36: At this time you must remove the tow hooks if you have not already done so and then trim the valence to fit. I left the valence off for a few days and modified it later. The tow hooks can stay on easily enough if you just trim a bit more from the valence.
Step 37: The center support of the grill must partially be removed to allow room for the tranny cooler. Yet again, no modifying required, just bolted the grille back up.
Step 38: Attach the spare tire winch tube to the cross member w/ a hanger and self-tapping sheet metal screw. For simplicity's sake I just took the drill and a screw and bolted it up that way.
Step 39: Install the new bumper brackets to the frame. I tightened them down just enough to allow some adjustment for aligning the bumper.
Step 40: Install the rear bumper to the raising brackets.
Step 41: Swing the stock outer support bracket in and over the stud on the outer support strap. Install it w/ a nut and bolt.
Step 42: Install the Factory hitch at this time if the vehicle is equipped with one. Again to simplify the process I left mine off and will install it later.
Step 43: Align the bumper to body clearances. To do this we used a level and tape measure and had two people hold it in alignment while I tightened it from beneath.
Step 44: Reconnect the license plate lights to the bumper.
Step 45: Reinstall the battery cables to the battery. Install the positive first and then the negative.
Step 46: Reinstall the air bag fuse and return the fuse cover to its proper place.
Step 47: Place a warning sticker on the dash. I put mine on the driver's side doorjamb because the orange sticker on the dash would be an eye sore.
Step 48: Double-check all the hose, wires, cables, etc for binding. Double check the transmission and transfer case operation. Then start the vehicle, check your steering, shift gears, check 4x4 operation, and double check the fan to make sure it's clearing the shroud.
Related Links:
Silverado Pics
CB Radio in Console
Key Fob Panic Disable

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